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How to Care For Your New Puppy **Potty Training**

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What you should know about your new puppy

What First-- When you take your new pup home please do not give it free run of your home when it's not with you. For the pups safety please confine your pup to a small area. Be sure in this area the pup has a bed to sleep in, and can see its food and water dish. You can put newspapers or house training pads down in this area for your pup to go potty. A playpen (the kind with no bottom),laundry room or crate works great for a new puppy. You can put the bed and food dish along with some paper down in the playpen. This will not only keep your pup safe but also give it room to play and exercise.Remember puppies need to be with people on a regular basis to develop healthy behavior.
 
Feeding--I recommend free feeding your little poodle puppy. This means to make sure your pup has crushed Iams Puppy food in his/her dish at all times along with a few pieces of whole food. These pups have very small stomachs and eat a little bit at a time. Toy dogs are what you call nibblers or grazers. When a pup comes to a new home sometimes they can get a little stressed out. If they seem not to want to eat the recommended dog food then mix it with wet canned pedigree for puppies. They seem to love this canned dog food. However I do not recommend you keep the pup on this food permanently it does not contain all the nutrients your puppy needs. A diet of soft food only leads to dental problems and it causes loose and frequent stools.
 
Stress & Hypoglycemia (low blood sugar)—This is a rare happening but I want you to be informed of this condition. Too much excitement can stess your puppy, make sure they play for no more than an hour without resting when they first come home. Some pups can get very stressed in moving to his/her new home. To avoid this I recommend putting 1/4 tsp Karo syrup in their water bowl for the first 2 weeks(especially with tiny toys and teacups). You have to stop and think this pup was use to being around all its littermates and mother. This stress can cause the pups natural glucose levels to fall. If you notice you’re pup becoming very listless and inactive this could be a warning sign. If this happens you need to get your pup pumped up with some glucose. The best thing I found is Nutra-Cal.  I include Nutra-Cal in some of my puppy packs.If you do not have this  available, karo syrup or honey can be used temporarily. If this does not seem to pep up your puppy with in 10 to 20 minutes take the pup to the vet immediately low blood sugar can be deadly.
   
Vaccinations--Your puppy will have been started on its first puppy shot (or first two shots depending on how old they are when they go to thier new home)  It is very important before your puppy has received their first 3 sets of shots that you do not take them out into public areas (like parks). We all want to show off our new puppies but this puts them at risk for catching life-threatening diseases. As soon as possible after getting your new puppy take your puppies health record to your vet and set an appointment for their next shots.
 
Grooming--Toy Poodles Puppies These puppies will need to be groomed. Probably about 3 to 4 weeks after first receiving your new Poodle puppy you will want to go ahead and schedule its first grooming. You will need to have your Toy Poodle groomed about once every month. You will need to get your Poodle pup used to being groomed often. Poodles do not shed and are a hypo-alergenic dog, which makes up for all the grooming. Their nails will need to be trimmed and ears cleaned out regularly.When your Poodle puppy reaches one year of age, it will need to be checked by the Vet for dental cleanings
 
 

New
 Housebreaking 101
This should work everytime if you follow it closely
Schedules for working owners and owners that are at home most of the day

   You can't expect too much in the way of housebreaking before your puppy is 12-14 weeks old because he does not have full sphincter muscle control.I do still highly recommend getting your puppy in the habit as soon as you get them. Very young puppies simply cannot hold bladder and bowel movements for long periods at this age. The interval between the urge and the act of urination or defecation is very short. Unless you immediately notice the distinctive movements you puppy makes when he's looking to relieve himself, like sniffing the floor to search for a toilet spot or going around in circles, he will soil your floor. Your principal duty when you bring your beautiful bundle of fluff home is to PREVENT accidents, but keep in your mind that even at this tender early age, virtually every action is a learning experience. The number one reason so many puppies end up at the animal shelters is twofold: the puppy is not taught "NO BITE!!" and/or the puppy is not properly housebroken.

   It will be impossible to watch him all of the time, so the solution is to confine the youngster to a "nursery area" completely covered with newspapers in a room such as the kitchen, with a washable floor, or confine him to a crate. The confining area shouldn't be much larger than 3 x 5 feet or so. I don't recommend that you give him the entire kitchen area unless you are willing to clean up a lot of puddles until he is a little older. Make him a comfortable bed in one corner where he can sit or lie and watch everything that's going on. Just make sure his area is covered with paper so he can't eliminate anywhere else.

   Start immediately to let him know what is expected. If you want him to potty outdoors, then don't deliberately praise him when he uses the paper, but don't scold him either. Don't acknowledge that he has gone at all. You don't want to confuse him about where to relieve himself because he's going to go outdoors in a reliable way within a short time. As soon as he is immunized, start taking him outside on an informal basis around the clock and every hour or so until he gains more muscle control, and remember to ask the question, "Do you want to go OUT?" Whenever he potties outside, praise lavishly. That will be your ultimate key to success. Puppies live to please you.

   Keep your puppy clean and change the papers frequently. Don't be too strict with him, because puppies go through a fear-imprint period stage between 8 and 12 weeks of age. Harsh punishment should be avoided; any discipline should be mild. Do not let anyone deliberately scare or hurt the puppy. Even a seemingly insignificant episode can destroy the bond you want to establish and frighten the puppy for months. An experience that produces trembling at this stage might effect your pup for life.

Some people postpone gentle early training because they think that very young puppies can't learn much. That is the farthest from the truth. A very young puppy is a highly responsible creature with an incredible capacity to explore its environment and learn new things each day. This critical period from 8 to 12 weeks of age when a puppy's inclination is to explore is when the puppy acquires the most knowledge. If enrichment experiences and simple training (i.e., socialization, potty training and "NO BITE!"), are denied or limited, the puppy could have a lower emotional IQ as an adult dog. Also, if it is a medical fact that puppies can't be housebroken until they are 14 weeks old, I use that information as my goal period to have the puppy totally reliable by 14 weeks of age. (I have personally seen puppies housebroken much earlier than 14 weeks.)

  We will be keeping a few things in mind that work towards your goal of housebreaking your puppy. A secret of successful and rapid housebreaking is to understand that dogs are den dwellers in their natural state. In the wild, dogs hunt for food, mate, socialize with fellow pack members, and relieve themselves OUTSIDE their dens. But they always return to their dens, snug and sheltered nests where they feel comfortable and secure, to sleep. Use this knowledge to house train your puppy.

Below is a simple formula that works. It is based on several things:

  1. Establish regular eating habits.
  2. Confine the pup at night and at specific times of the day to his "den" or Crate or Puppy Area where he won't want to relieve himself.
  3. Follow a strict outdoor walking schedule.
  4. Give plenty of praise!!
  5. Use the right kind of corrective training.
  6. Get rid of odors promptly (Nature's Miracle works great!).

STAY CONSISTENT AND DETERMINED...IT WILL WORK.

If you are not consistant early on with your puppy it will take much longer to housebreak your dog. If you don't want to take him out consistantly you can't expect him to be broken by 14 weeks.

  The very last thing you must do before you go to bed is to take your puppy out to relieve himself. Praise lavishly. The very first thing you must do when you get up in the morning is to take out your puppy. (Don't take a shower or make the coffee...puppy comes first!) I have a pair of slippers or shoes next to my bed and in the winter, a coat, ready to throw on. When your alarm goes off, (or his alarm goes off), get out of bed and CARRY your puppy out to the preferred potty spot. Let him sniff around and don't rush him. Sniffing is important for some puppies to stimulate elimination. Notice how he finds a previous potty spot and immediately squats to eliminate. The odor encourages him to go in that area. Stay close by and the moment your puppy relieves himself, praise lavishly and let him think he has accomplished the best ever and tell him how clever he is. Bring him back inside. This is the time he may have a little play period in the kitchen while you prepare breakfast but NEVER let him run loose in the house without supervision at this time.

  Give him his breakfast. Pick up his dish after 15 to 20 minutes and give him plenty of fresh water. During the more formal training period, remember, water should be restricted by time, not by quantity, so give him all he wants to drink. Fifteen to 20 minutes later, ask him if he "Wants to Go OUT?" and take him immediately to the same spot. Always return to the same toilet area, because like I stated before, the odors that linger from previous visits will remind your puppy why he is there. Praise him enthusiastically when he does his duty and give him enough time to both urinate and defecate. If nothing happens, however, bring him back inside, confine him for another 15 to 20 minutes and try again. You may have to do this three or four times on the first morning, but once you learn how his own "internal clock" functions, you'll get your timing straight.

  When the puppy does relieve himself after breakfast, he can have another supervised free period before being confined until the next meal or outing, when you will repeat the above steps again. The length of supervised free periods depends on the puppy's age. Once your puppy can handle a 30-minute period with no accidents, give him more freedom by increasing his free time to 45 minutes, and so on. Your goal is to increase his free periods gradually until he needs to be confined ONLY while your are away from home and at night. He does not have to spend all his supervised free time in one room because he needs to investigate and to mingle with family members and/or other pets as much as possible. Just don't let him discover your best living room furniture and rugs until he has completely relieved himself. If your puppy regresses, it's back to square 1: start the program from the beginning once more.

  A puppy will relieve himself many times during the day, especially if he is very young, and you must be prepared to take him out:

  • Immediately after waking up in the morning
  • After extreme excitement or long play periods
  • The last thing at night before bedtime
  • After every meal and drink of water
  • After he wakes up from a nap

  Between these times, stay alert for signs that your puppy is looking to relieve himself, actions such as whining, acting restless, sniffing the floor or going around in circles. When you see him doing these things, try to distract him for a moment, grab him up as you ask "Do you want to go OUT?" and take him out immediately to his potty spot and set him down. You may be going out 8 to 10 times or more the first week or two, but once the puppy settles into his routine, keeping in mind that every week his body is becoming more mature and capable of "holding it", he should not have to go out more than 4 to 6 times a day, depending on his age.

  Stick to a strict schedule. The more conscientious YOU ARE YOURSELF, the more successful the training will be. It takes patience to make your young puppy understand what you want him to do, but he will adapt to your time schedule eventually. There will be accidents, of course; that is part of raising a puppy. When your puppy makes a mistake in the house, never abuse him physically and never yell. Correct him humanely. The firm and sharp word "NO-O-O-O" is enough for now. How you say this word can convey your displeasure very effectively.

   Always go outside with your new puppy during this training period, even if your yard is fenced in. Your pup wants to be with you, not alone outside at this young age. You want to see when and where he relieves himself, and your enthusiastic praise as he does his duty will encourage him and speed up the process tremendously. Once your pup is completely housebroken, it will not be necessary to accompany him outdoors if your yard is fenced in. If not, always take your dog out on a leash. NEVER LET HIM ROAM FREE!!

 


If You Work All Day

Your routine will be the same if you work all day, only you will need to adjust your puppy's feeding and walking times, supervised free periods, and confinement periods to conform with your work or school hours. Other members of the household should help. This should definitely be a "family affair". With everyone taking a turn and the older children helping with the potty schedule, you should be able to potty train your puppy to conform to your work hours.

Just before you leave for work, take your puppy out, and then confine him to his "den" or area for the day. If you work long or irregular hours, I recommend that you leave newspapers in the den area if he is less than 10 weeks old. I then leave the area "paperless" to encourage him to "hold it" until I get home. If you have an older responsible child, teach them to take your puppy out as soon as they get home from school. If your child is responsible enough, they could also be taught to feed/water and again take out the puppy to potty.

You can decrease your puppy's confinement and restraint time if you can get home for lunch or arrange with a neighbor to walk him at noon. But, if you must leave your puppy alone all day, come STRAIGHT home after work. You have a new responsibility. Your puppy will grow quickly and this will soon be behind you. No "happy hour" with colleagues during this training period. Greet your pup animatedly and make a big fuss over him no matter what his "den" area looks like. It's normal to find a puddle or mess when you first begin the training or if your puppy is between 7 and 10 weeks old. Just don't acknowledge the messes when you find them. Say "Do you want to go OUT?" and RUSH OUTSIDE. Once you return indoors, pick up any dirty or wet papers or clean the crate if necessary, and resume the feeding, walking, free-period and confinement schedule until bedtime.

Keep you puppy's feeding and walking schedule as consistent as possible to avoid throwing him off schedule. In other words, even keep to the work schedule on weekends. Don't sleep in late on Saturday and Sunday and then take him out more frequently when you are not normally home. Try to confine him during a period of the day on both days so as not to confuse him for the weekdays.

Eventually, you will return home one afternoon to find no mistakes!! (If your child finds no mistakes first, have him or her tell you!!) You can celebrate the beginning of a more normal life. As I mentioned in our discussions, just about the time you a sick and tired of following this routine you will notice that your pup is becoming potty trained. Your hard work will payoff! He will only be a puppy for a little while and then you can enjoy the fruit of your labor.

  Poodles want to be with their family members or their "pack" members, not isolated from them, so it is important to give your pup plenty of exercise and attention while you are home so he does not become discontented and bored while you are gone. He should be well exercised before and after his confinements. Get up earlier or allot extra time after work or school to cuddle your puppy and give him a little romp. Once he is completely housebroken, take him for long walks or a run in the park. Your puppy will not object to being confined if he's toned up and contented. This time spent playing with and loving your puppy will be repaid by his faithfulness and loving companionship.

A REMINDER: By the time your puppy is around 14 weeks of age (or possibly sooner!), he should be able to go through the night without having to relieve himself. If an older puppy 5-6 months old or older still makes mistakes, either you have not done your job, or, have him examined by a veterinarian.

Acknowledgment: The material in this package has been accumulated from personal experience, other breeder's experiences, and some concepts were taken from the following books; How To Housebreak Your Dog In 7 Days, by Shirlee Kalstone; Veterinary Notes for Dog Breeders, by Annette Carricato, V.M.D., and in How To Raise a Puppy You Can Live With, by Rutherford and Neil. These books are excellent references and could be found at your local bookstores.

SCHEDULE NO. 1
3-6 Month Puppy Eating 3 Meals a Day -- OWNER HOME

  • 7 am Wake up. Take pup out.
  • 7:10-7:30 am Free period in kitchen.
  • 7:30 am Food and Water.
  • 8 am Go Out.
  • 8:15 am Free period in kitchen.
  • 8:45 am Go Out - then Confine.
  • 12:00 noon Go Out - then Food and Water.
  • 12:30 PM Go Out.
  • 12:45 PM Free Period in Kitchen or Supervised.
  • 1:15 PM Go Out - then Confine.
  • 5:00 pm Go Out - then Food and Water.
  • 5:30 pm Go Out.
  • 6:15 pm Go Out - then Confine.
  • 8:00 pm Go Out - then give last water for the day.
  • 8:15 pm Go Out.
  • 8:30 pm Free period in kitchen or supervised with family.
  • 9:00 pm Go out - then Confine.
  • 11:00 pm Go out - Confine for overnight.

NOTE: If the above schedule was followed for one week and the puppy was over 12-14 weeks old, your puppy should be completely toilet trained to going outside within that week or so. As your puppy goes for longer and longer periods without an accident, change the above schedule accordingly. If you use a similar schedule as soon as your puppy is 8-10 weeks old, your puppy should be totally house trained by the time he is approximately 4 months old.



SCHEDULE NO. 2
3-6 Month Puppy Eating 3 Meals a Day - OWNER WORKS

  • 7 am Wake up. Take pup out.
  • 7:10-7:30 am Free period in kitchen.
  • 7:30 am Food and Water.
  • 8 am Go Out - Confine when owner leaves for day.
  • Leave safe toys and chews to keep puppy entertained.
  • ------at work-----if older kids come home before you -----add this to schedule---------
  • ------try to slip home for lunch as much as possible during this time--------------------
  • 5:00 PM Go Out - then Food and Water - back Out.
  • 5:30 PM Free period in Kitchen or supervised with family.
  • 6:00 PM Go Out.
  • 6:15 PM Confine. (Now try to make and eat your own dinner!)
  • 7:30 PM Go Out - Come back to free period with family.
  • 8:00 PM Small meal or snack and plenty of water (take up water)
  • 8:30 PM Go Out - Free period in kitchen or supervised with family.
  • 9:00 PM Go Out - More free time or confine.
  • 11:00 PM Go out - Confine for overnight.

NOTE: If you have to be to work by 8:00 am, then of course you have to adjust your schedule accordingly and start earlier. This schedule is to give you some sort of an idea of what could work for you. Once you have made up your own schedule, stick to it. The only thing that should change is the frequency of the going OUT and afterwards, FREE PERIODS. The OUTS should become less frequent as your pup grows, the FREE PERIODS should become longer and more frequent as your pup grows and becomes more trustworthy.

Final Last Note -- The Power of Praise

Praise is the most effective way to show your puppy that you are pleased with him. It is a crucial element in any type of canine training, and it should be administered in generous doses. Every time your pup does something right, flatter his ego with plenty of praise! Let him know that what he has just done has pleased you tremendously. Make a huge fuss as you say "GOOOD DOGGG!" or "GOOOOOOOD BOYYYY!" enthusiastically. You don't need to use the same word or phrase always when you praise your puppy; your tone of voice will convey your enthusiasm. Express your pleasure with your touch as well. Stroke and hug your puppy lovingly as a reward. Each time you express your approval, you will be positively reinforcing the behavior you praise. Puppies (and Dogs) love to be the center of attention. They live and breathe for it. They want to hear how wonderful and how smart and how beautiful they are. Just watch how eager your pup is to please you after a few kind words!

GOOD LUCK ON YOUR HOUSEBREAKING!

 Originally By: Patti Conroy

      with my own experience and advice added

 


Basic Housetraining Rules

  1. Most puppies are easy to train because they are pack animals with strong instincts to follow and please a leader ---YOU. Learn to understand your puppy's inherited behavioral instincts and work with - not against- them.
  2. Don't expect to completely housebreak a puppy under 14 weeks of age, because he does not have full muscle control. Very young puppies 7-10 weeks can't hold bladder and bowel movements for long periods.
  3. Decide on your schedule and stick to it. Consistency from your entire family will expedite the training and make your puppy a better-adjusted pet.
  4. Feed a premium nutritious diet on a consistent schedule and he will begin to eliminate on a consistent schedule.
  5. Do not give your puppy table scraps between or with meals while you are attempting to house train.
  6. Confine your puppy in a crate, part of the kitchen, or makeshift "den" certain periods of the day and for the night. It is the best way for him and for you to teach him control of his body functions.
  7. TAKE YOUR PUPPY TO HIS TOILET AREA
    • First thing every morning
    • After every meal and drink of water
    • After every nap
    • After every play period or excitement
    • Right before bedtime
  8. Stay alert for whining, restlessness, sniffing floor or circling -- RUSH OUT !
  9. Use praise lavishly every time he relieves himself. Use only a verbal correction like "NOOOOO" when he makes a mistake. He will know you are displeased with him.
  10. Clean up with NATURE'S MIRACLE or similar product to get rid of odors so your puppy won't find the spot and go there again.

I recommend using  either Eukanuba,Iams dry puppy food or Exclusive dry puppy food

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Eukanuba® Small Breed Puppy Edit Text

Eukanuba® Small Breed Puppy supports the healthy development of small breed puppies. Small puppies need food that supports their amazing energy requirements, because they reach maturity in just 9 to 12 months. These puppies burn more calories and need more energy per pound than larger breed puppies. Eukanuba® Small Breed Puppy Formula is designed to meet the increased needs of growing small breed puppies.

  • Contains key nutrient DHA for a smarter, more trainable puppy (guaranteed at 0.1%)
  • Smaller Nutrient dense kibble – ideal for small stomachs
  • Contains natural fibers (beet pulp and FOS) which help promote a healthy digestive tract
  • High-quality protein exclusively sourced from chicken, fish and egg
  • Sample size packs of either this food or Exclusive as mentioned on How to Care for Your Puppy page will be included.
  • Please for your puppies health do not feed generic foods  or change his food quickly this can cause diarrhea which can be life threatening in a puppy that is very young. 
  • Contains 502 calories per cup , Iams puppy has 488 calories per cup Pedigree puppy dry 314 calories per cup. Puppies need high calorie food to devolop. Edit Text
Edit Table

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Iams Smart Puppy Lamb Meal & Rice Formula
Nutrient-rich lamb meal is the basis for every delicious kibble of Iams Smart Puppy Lamb Meal & Rice Formula. DHA (Docosahexaenoic Acid) a brain-building nutrient found in Iams Smart Puppy Lamb Meal & Rice nourishes your puppy's brain during the critical rapid-growth months. DHA is a key nutrient that's found naturally in mother's breast milk and is important for a baby's neural development. And just like babies, a puppy's ability to learn depends upon healthy brain development. This natural omega-3 fatty acid, DHA, is "brain food" for your puppy. Providing DHA supports the early development of neural tissues for optimal brain function. The essential vitamins and minerals found in Iams Smart Puppy Lamb Meal & Rice helps support a puppy's developing immune system and helps him stay healthy during puppyhood. A patented fiber source helps keep sensitive digestive systems healthy, so more nutrition can stay in your puppy. Every bowl of Iams Smart Puppy Lamb Meal & Rice Formula contains targeted levels of calcium and phosphorus to help your puppy develop strong teeth and bones.

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Exclusive Chicken & Rice Puppy Formula
Fresh Chicken - Our #1 Ingredient

This food is found strictly through select Professional Animal Feed Dealers who specialize in the care and feeding of dogs and cats --- not through mass merchant retailers. We invest our research and marketing funds into improved quality instead of national advertising. This allows us to offer you superior nutritional diets at a lower cost. To find the dealer nearest you, see our dealer locator or call 1-800-332-4738.
FRESH Chicken or Lamb - Our #1 Ingredient! Exclusive Pet Foods use chicken or lamb that has never been frozen. Pets love our fresh meat formulas. These fresh meats give your pet a better tasting diet that is more nutritious, has higher digestibility and is lower in ash content. That is why it's our #1 ingredient.
Exclusive Brand Pet Foods are formulated to provide an optimal balance of Omega-6 and Omega-3 fatty acids to promote a healthy Skin & Coat and to maintain a healthy immune system. Scientific research has shown that the ideal ratio of Omega-6 to Omega-3 fatty acids is between 5:1 and 10:1. Exclusive Brand Pet Foods are formulated and guaranteed to be within this ratio of these essential nutrients.
Every bag of PMI Nutrition® and Exclusive™ Brand Pet Food carries our 100% Money-Back Guarantee. If you are not completely satisfied with the quality, palatability or performance of any of our brands, simply return the unused portion for a full refund of your purchase price

I put a sample of the food your puppy has been used to eating in the puppy pack it takes with them to their new home.